Yogyakarta— despite the official spelling, the name is usually pronounced and not uncommonly written Jogjakarta or just Jogja (JOGH-jah) — is a major tourist destination in Indonesia. It is the capital city of the province of Yogyakarta Special Region which is in the southern part of the Central Java province, Indonesia.

Bank Indonesia Building

Understand

Yogyakarta is both the name of a province Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta (DIY), literally the Special Area Yogyakarta, and the name of one of DIY’s 5 Districts, Kota (or city) Yogyakarta’. The other districts are Sleman on the slopes of fiery Mt Merapi to the North, Bantul all the way to the sea to the South, the hills of Gunungkidul to the East and the low lands of Kulon Progo to the West

One of Indonesia’s few Special regions (another being Aceh), the Yogyakarta Special Region owes its special status to the sultanate of Hamengkubuwono, which has ruled the area since 1749 and steered the state through difficult times of occupation and revolution. When the central government tried to weaken the sultan’s power by calling a direct election for the state leader, present sultan Hamengkubuwono X was chosen by an overwhelming majority.

Today’s Yogyakarta is a bustling town of some 500,000 people and the most popular tourist destination on Java, largely thanks to its proximity to the temples of Borobudur and Prambanan. The town is a center of art and education, offers some good shopping and has a wide range of tourist facilities.

At 6:30AM on Saturday morning, May 27th 2006, a Richter 5.9 earthquake struck the province of Yogyakarta and the adjoining district of Klaten in Central Java. Although relatively mild, from 40 km below the surface the earthquake produced violent shockwaves that wobbled through the soft clay soils of Yogya’s southern and eastern rice paddy districts for a brutal 60 odd seconds. In this briefest moment in time nearly 6,000 people died and over 300,000 houses were completely destroyed, with another 300,000 seriously damaged, making the Jogja earthquake, (in terms of physical damage) one of the worst in global history

Although Yogyakarta city was less than 25 km from the epicenter few areas of the city suffered significant visual damage, with most damage confined to the south and east of the city centre in areas such as the famous silver smithing area of Kota Gede and the artsy areas to the south of Jl Prawirotaman

The massive response by the people of Java, the Indonesian government and the national and international aid community has resulted in one of the most rapid and effective disaster recovery operations ever.

The above said, many residents of the affected districts of Jogja and Central Java still remain deeply traumatized, continuing to suffer from the deep pain caused by the loss of family, injuries and loss of livelihoods. Aid efforts continue to this day, with many families still housed in makeshift or semi complete accommodation. Visitors should feel encouraged to travel through the earthquake affected area, assisting however they can

Get in

Yogyakarta City map

By plane

Yogyakarta’s Adisucipto International Airport (JOG), 8 km east of town, is a small but busy mostly-domestic hub. There are near-hourly connections on Garuda to Jakarta (50 minutes) and Denpasar, while other domestic airlines service major cities in Java, Sumatra, Kalimantan and Sulawesi. International services are provided to Kuala Lumpur and Singapore by AirAsia.

There is a tourist information desk, ATM and taxi stand in the arrivals hall. A metered taxi to the city or direct to Prambanan costs about Rp 50,000. A departure tax of Rp 25,000 is charged for domestic flights and Rp 100,000 for international flights.

Yogyakarta airport is the sole rail-connected airport in Indonesia. Those arriving from (and departing into) the airport can take a Prambanan Ekspres regional train from Kutoarjo (west of Yogyakarta) or Palur (just east of Surakarta) and several stations in between.

• Bandar Udara Internasional Adisucipto (Adisucipto International AIrport), Jalan Solo km9, Yogyakarta 55282, +62 274 484261 (fax: +62 274 488155).

By bus

The main bus station is Giwangan, 4 km to the southeast of the center. There are regular services throughout the island, including Jakarta (9 hours), Bandung (6 hours), and Surabaya (8 hours).

• Terminal Penumpang Giwangan (Giwangan Bus Terminal). Jalan Imogiri, Giwangan, Yogyakarta 55163, +62 274 378288, 7482222 (fax: +62 274 7483333

There is also a new bus station as of March 2008 which is part of the Trans Jogja Busway System inside the airport. From there you can get to any one of the many bus stations in the system. It costs Rp 3000 for a ticket.

If you are planning to come to Yogyakarta from Bandung then you need to go to Cicaheum Terminal in Bandung to get bus. If direct bus is not available then take bus to Purvakatro (6-7 hrs, IDR 45000). From Purvakarto there are regular buses available for Yogyakarta (4-5 hrs, IDR 30000).

By train

Trains to Jakarta take between 7 to 12 hours from the main Yogyakarta station, commonly called Tugu Station. The Argo-class trains (Argo Lawu and Argo Dwipangga) are the best of the lot: most comfortable and fastest (~8 hours, Rp 200.000 including mineral water and snacks). Taksaka is almost as good. These expresses connect Yogyakarta and Jakarta in 7-8 hours, either at daytime or overnight. The line between Kroya and Prupuk, where the railway crosses the main backbone mountains of Java, is scenic.

Passengers to/from Bandung should take the Argo Wilis or Lodaya expresses which traverse a scenic part of Java during daylight hours, with rice fields and mountains (although there is an overnight Lodaya and the Turangga from Surabaya also travels overnight. The fare is Rp 155.000 including mineral water and food (or more like snacks).

Passengers to Surabaya are served by the twice-daily Sancaka service departing in the morning and afternoon.

Yogyakarta and Solo are connected by several Prambanan Ekspres trains. Despite the name, the train does not stop at Prambanan station, and even if it does make an unscheduled stop, the station is rather far from the temple complex of Prambanan. The Prambanan Ekspres does stop at Maguwo station (for the airport) making it easy for travelers to change modes.

• Stasiun Tugu (Tugu Central Railway Station), Jalan Mangkubumi 1, Yogyakarta 55232, +62 274 589685. The main central station, serves big city destinations such as Jakarta, Bandung, Surabaya, and Solo.
• Stasiun Lempuyangan (Lempuyangan Railway Station), Jalan Lempuyangan, Yogyakarta 552224. Serves economy class trains and small city destinations.

Get around

Muscle-powered transport: becak and andong

Yogyakarta is a relatively small city, so travelling around town should not be too expensive.

By taxi

Yogyakarta’s taxis are metered and nowadays most taxi drivers are trustworthy. Flagfall is Rp 5000 and most trips around the center of town should not cost more than Rp 15,000. After dark the minimum fare for a taxi is Rp 10,000 even if the meter reads less that Rp 10,000. If by chance you find a taxi driver that you feel comfortable with and trustworthy, ask for his cellular phone number so that next time you need to travel you can call directly to his cell phone and arrange your travel needs. Most taxi drivers will be more than happy to do this.

By trishaw

Traditional three-wheeled and pedal-powered cart, known as becak, which can be found in most part of Yogyakarta. Haggle furiously before getting into the becak. Be sure to determine whether the price is for a one-way or return (pulang) trip and if you want the driver to wait whilst you conduct your shopping or business. A ride from within the city to the Malioboro shopping precinct should not cost more than Rp 20,000.

By horse cart

Traditional horse-pulled carts, known as andong, or dokar, wait for tourists outside hotspots like the train station, the Kraton and Mal Malioboro. Haggle furiously. The traditional route is from Jalan Malioboro to Keraton, and this is where you’ll find most andong. Usually, andong opt to take you to shop for fake Dagadu t-shirt in Ngasem area with hefty prices. Then, andong will take you back to your initial journey. The cost for one round trip for andong is Rp 20,000 (twenty thousand rupiahs). Usually they ask for Rp 30,000 but they may settle for less. Andong can accommodate up to 5 adult passengers.

By bus

Medium and small size buses are the main public transport in Yogyakarta.

There are two kind of bus: regular and patas. Patas buses, known as TransJogja operates from 6AM to 10PM and stops only at designated shelters. Unlike regular buses, TransJogja is air-conditioned and generally safer. Tickets can be purchased directly at the shelters and cost for single trip is Rp 3000. Passengers may purchase regular trip cards which cuts per tip cost to Rp 2700, and allows transit to other shelter.

Regular buses normally operates from 6AM to 5PM, and some long routes extend their operation until 9PM. Please never bring anything valuable on public buses, pickpockets in buses are now more common than ever before. Cost for single trip is Rp 2000 regardless of distance (within the city). Usually on a bus there will be one driver and one helper who will hang from the side of the bus and handle money and try to get passengers. The helper will usually tap you on the shoulder to indicate you should pay him. If there is no helper you can pay the driver directly. When you are ready to get off a bus, tell the driver or helper “Kiri,” which means left. Animated bus route maps are available at Transportation Agency of Yogyakarta website.

The tranquil sultan residence, Kraton Yogyakarta

Being one of the oldest cities in Indonesia, Yogyakarta has many heritage buildings and monuments. The number one must-see attraction is Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono’s palace, better known as Kraton Ngayogyakarta. Other heritage buildings from colonial era are: BNI ’46 building, Kantor Pos Besar (Central Post Office) building, and Bank Indonesia building, all of them are located near Sultan’s palace.

Other notable landmarks and attractions are:

• Tugu Monument. A well known landmark located in the center of downtown Yogyakarta. Built by Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono VI, the top spire was originally a round sphere which represents the universe. During the colonial era, the spire was replaced with a golden cylinder.

• Benteng Vredeburg, Jalan Jenderal Ahmad Yani 6, Yogyakarta 55122, +62 274 586934, 510996 (fax: +62 274 586934). A Dutch fort located in front of Gedung Agung (President’s Palace). A great example of the Dutch colonial architecture. A few warfare items are still preserved, including a twin cannon.

• Kotagede. The capital of ancient Islamic Mataram kingdom. The tomb of Mataram Kingdom’s first king, Panembahan Senopati, is also located in this place. Before independence, Kotagede was the central economic district of Yogyakarta, as it held the largest marketplace and was home to many wealthy batik merchants. Although some ancient buildings have been modernized or replaced with newer buildings, Kotagede remains a prime example of ancient Javanese architecture and city structure. Be sure to check out the local silver handicrafts.

• Imogiri, southwest of town. Graveyard of the Yogyakarta and Surakarta royal families. Suffered damage during 2006 earthquake but has reopened.

• Kotabaru, which used to be Dutch officials residential area, has few heritage homes as well as a colonial style church and monastery (Gereja Kotabaru) and a stadium (Stadion Kridosono).

Kraton Complex

The Sri Sultan’s palace or Kraton encompasses the main palace, Sultan’s residential, two Sultan’s grounds, and large residential area where sultan servants used to reside. Notable attraction in Kraton complex are:

• Kraton Yogyakarta. A calm yet elegant Javanese heritage that consists of two separate entrances: the Main Court (Pagilaran & Siti Hinggil), and the Residence. The Main Court showcases the grandeur of Sultan’s monarchy, while the Residence is more homey while still exhibiting the royal family’s luxurious lifestyle. Open 8.30 AM to 1 PM daily, on Friday the attraction is closed at 11 AM. While the guide is part of the entrance fee, they might expecting tips. Some guide might offer extended trip to sultan’s servants batik workshop, this is a scam as they only bring you to a regular batik shop with steep price. It’s a good idea to refuse their offer politely. Rp 12500 (foreign tourist price) or Rp 5000 (Indonesian tourist price), Rp 1000 extra for a photo permit (price as of June 15, 2008).

• Sultan’s Carriage Museum (Museum Kereta) . This museum houses Sultan’s horse-drawn carriages, including two beautiful carriages imported from the Netherlands and known as Golden Carts (kereta kencana).

• Taman Sari, Jalan Taman, Kraton Yogyakarta 55133. Also known by the Dutch name waterkasteel (water castle), this is a partly ruined complex built as a pleasure garden by the first Sultan in 1765. One of the bathing pools was dedicated to the sultan’s harem, and he had a tower overlooking the area so he could take his pick. Entrance fee does not cover the guide, who will expect tips. Open 9 AM to 3 PM daily. Rp 7000 for entrance, Rp 1000 for a photo permit (price as of June 15, 2008).

• Siti Hinggil Selatan. This somehow-muted palace is rarely used for formal occasion. You can catch a shadow puppet performance during weekend night.

• Alun-Alun or the Sultan’s ground. There are two Sultan’s grounds: Alun-alun Utara and Alun-alun Selatan or the northern and southern Sultan’s ground, consecutively. If you are lucky, you can see the Gerebeg Maulud parade during Prophet Muhammad’s birthday.

• Masjid Gede Kauman, one of the oldest and largest mosque in Yogyakarta. Located on the west of Alun-alun Utara, this mosque was where the Sultan performs his religious rites and ceremonies. Non-muslim visitors should wear decent clothing. It may be a good idea to ask the mosque authorities prior to entering the mosque due to some rules that must be abide.

Yogyakarta city was built with deep philosophy: the city was designed so that the main elements of the city forms a imaginary line. This straight line starts from Parangtritis on the coast, to Kraton Yogyakarta, to Tugu Monument, and finally to Mount Merapi. This represents Sultan’s strong relationship with the guardian spirits of Mt. Merapi and the beach of Parangtritis.

Museum

• Museum Dirgantara (aircraft museum), Jalan Kolonel Sugiono, Yogyakarta 55002 (behind Adi Sucipito Airport), +62 0274 564465, 564466. M-Th 8AM-1PM, Sa 8AM-12PM. This Indonesian aircraft museum holds several antique aircraft from WWII era such as Badger bomber, MIG-15 to MIG-21, P-51 Mustang, Catalina flying boat, Auster MkII, Lavochkin LA-11, F-86 Sabre, T-33 Bird, A6M5 Zero, etc. Rp 5000.

• Museum Sonobudoyo, Jalan Trikora 6, Yogyakarta 55122 (north alun-alun), +62 274 76775, 373617 (fax: +62 274 385664). A Javanese archeology museum, has many Javanese artefacts like wayang puppets, masks, statues, textiles, weapons, as well as a full set of Javanese gamelan instruments. Worth a visit if you have some extra time in Yogya, or you are interested in Javanese culture study. Rp 3000.

• Museum Kekayon, Jalan Raya Yogya–Wonosari (km 7) 277, Baturetno, Banguntapan, Bantul, Yogyakarta 55179, +62 0274 513218, 379058, 0818260020. e-mail: museumkekayon@usa.net. Tu-Su 8AM-3PM. A wayang (puppet) museum with a lush javanese style garden. It is divided into 10 sectors, where each holds a vast amount of wayang puppets from various places in Indonesia. Rp 5000.

Candi (Ancient Temples)

Candi is ancient archeological structure constructed during 7th-9th century aimed for a specific religion (Budha or Hindu). It was constructed from hundreds of volcanic or river stone blocks and assembled solely by human labor. Candi walls is often carved with reliefs depicting stories, and a stone God or Godess statue usually sits at the center.

There are several candi located in Yogyakarta and it’s proximity. Borobudur, one of famous candi is in Magelang, not far from Yogyakarta. Prambanan, also a well-known candi is in the Yogyakarta-Central Java border area.

• Candi Sambisari
  Candi Sambisari is very unique. Unlike other candi, it sits at estimated 6m below the ground line. It is easy to reach because it is located close to Adisucipto International Airport. You can go there by taxi. Candi Sambisari consists of one main candi and three supporting candis (perwara). You can see lingga and yoni, symbol of male and female sex, inside the main candi. In the main candi’s wall, there are three statue, Agastya in south side, Ganesha in east side, and Dewi Durga in north side. From the lingga, yoni, and the statues, it has been concluded that the Sambisari was built to adore Siva Gods. There is no fixed reference about when and who built this candi. But from the Wanua III inscriptions, Candi Sambisari is predicted to be cunstructed in 9th century (812-838 AD).

• Candi Kalasan
  Candi Kalasan is located not far from Prambanan, around 2 km to the west from Prambanan or 14 km to the east from Yogyakarta. This candi is on the south side of the Prambanan-Yogyakarta main road. It is the oldest Buddhist temple in Yogyakarta. Constructed in late 7th century (778 AD) by Rakai Panangkaran from Sanjaya Dinasty. He was Hindu but he built a Buddhist temple, thus it reflects peacefully religion life during that time. The relief carved in this candi are known to be the most beautiful. The wall is covered by ancient white cement called bajralepa. Candi Kalasan was built to adore Dewi Tara (Tara Godess). A Boddhisatva bronze statue used to be placed inside the candi, but this statue is not there anymore.

• Candi Sari
  Candi Sari is located not far from Candi Kalasan, estimated 600 m to north-east from Candi Kalasan. This candi was built as an ancient Buddhist monk dormitory. Inside the candi, there are two floors with three rooms on each floor. The reliefs is similar with Candi Kalasan’s and the wall is also covered with bajralepa. There are Boddhisatva and Tara Godess carved beside the windows that show us the relation between Candi Kalasan and Candi Sari. The unique rooftop consists of 9 stupas in grid. The holes in some areas shows that woods was used to complete the construction. This candi is predicted to be build in the same era with Candi Kalasan.

Art Gallery

• Bentara Budaya, Jalan Suroto 2, Kota Baru, +62 0274 560404. Art exhibitions, movies, book discussions.
• Cemeti Art House, Jalan D.I. Panjaitan 41, +62 0274 371105, (cemetiah@indosat.net.id). Fine art and modern art exhibitions, book discussions and performances.
• French/Indonesian Cultural Center (LIP), Jalan Sagan 3, +62 0274 566520. Art exhibitions, movies, book discussions, performances, library.
• Jogja Gallery, Jalan Pekapalan 7, Alun-Alun Utara. +62 0274 419999, 412021, 7161188, (jogjagallery@yahoo.co.id). Modern art gallery exhibiting avant garde artworks.
• Kedai Kebun, Jalan Tirtodipuran 3, +62 274 376114, (email:kkforum@indosat.net.id). Art exhibitions, performances, book discussions.